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Immortel Berhault

Immortel Berhault

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« Une étoile est née », titre le tout jeune magazine Alpinisme et Randonnée dans son numéro de septembre 1979. Suit la liste improbable des courses réalisées par Patrick Berhault durant sa saison d’été… « Toutes ces solitaires, précise l’article, pour mieux enfoncer le clou, Berhault les a faites sans sac : corde en bandoulière, quelques pitons à la taille, un bout de chocolat dans la poche, les E.B. Autour du cou ».
Ces quelques lignes qui ouvrent le quatrième chapitre du livre, c’est Berhault, livré dans la foudroyante évidence de son talent : le risque se dissout dans la pureté de l’exécution. Le « dénuement matériel » moque l’apparente démesure de l’entreprise. C’est la vitesse qui vérifie la justesse du paradoxe de Lachenal : « plus on va vite, moins de temps on passe à risquer sa peau ! ».
Si Michel Bricola et Dominique Potard livrent un travail documenté et ne cachent pas leur admiration pour le personnage, l’homme Berhault — une fois débarrassé de sa corde et de ses chaussons — les passionne tout autant.
Michel Bricola, l’ami et le confident de toujours fouille dans sa mémoire et tente de cerner au plus près les contours d’une personnalité peu ordinaire. Il a de Berhault une connaissance intime et son témoignage confère à ce livre un caractère unique.
Quant à Dominique Potard, il fait avec Berhault cordée sur le papier, la plume de l’un filant sur les pages aussi vite que les chaussons de l’autre sur les dalles des aiguilles. Berhault nous enchante, Potard nous emporte.
Certains livres grandissent leur héros, celui-ci grandit aussi ses lecteurs… Extraits, en exclusivité pour Escape

Retour

Le 14 août 1981, Patrick revient au premier plan de la scène alpine, rappelant à l’occasion que son nom est synonyme de liberté et de vitesse. Ce qu’il appelle « le style léger ». Sans pour autant se prendre au sérieux : le coup, réalisé avec Jean-Marc Boivin, tient du gag.
La face sud de l’Aiguille du Fou est une pièce unique dans toutes les Alpes. Un cinglant coup de sabre dans l’ordonnancement harmonieux des aiguilles de Chamonix. Les premiers à s’y attaquer sont les Américains, rodés à l’école du Yosemite, autre miroir granitique. Après cinq tentatives, Tom Frost, Gary Hemming, John Harlin, accompagnés d’un Écossais, Stewart Fulton, réussiront, les 25 et 26 juillet 1963, la première ascension de cette face, qui va longtemps être considérée comme la plus difficile escalade de toutes les Alpes. Tom Frost surmontera l’un des passages clés, la diagonale, longue de 80 m, en libre et assuré par un seul piton : du haut vol !
L’idée était venue à Patrick, suite à un article paru dans le magazine Alpinisme et Randonnée, qui s’extasiait des horaires réalisés en montagne par la nouvelle génération. Le journaliste concluait par un défi : « à ceux qui seraient tentés de faire mieux, on peut faire quelques suggestions, par exemple : Directe américaine aux Drus et face sud du Fou… dans la journée. » La distance séparant ces deux parois — sept bonnes heures de « marche » sans traîner — corsant notablement l’affaire.

Jean-Marc Boivin est un polyvalent de la montagne : il touche à tout avec la même énervante réussite, escalade glaciaire, rocheuse, ski extrême, deltaplane, parapente, base-jump (un jeu très rigolo qui consiste à se balancer en chute libre du haut des plus effroyables précipices, avec un parachute minuscule que l’on ouvre au dernier moment). Son parcours hétéroclite est impressionnant. De ses débuts où il joue les Tarzans dans les goyaviers du Cambodge de son enfance, à sa fin tragique au Salto Angel (Venezuela), la plus haute cascade du monde qu’il saute en base-jump, il aura exploré tout ce que la planète pouvait lui offrir en matière de sensations fortes. En 1979, atteint d’une hémorragie rétinienne, il décolle en deltaplane de l’altitude de 7600 m, au K2. Il ne voit pratiquement rien et se repère aux cris des gens au camp de base pour se poser… Lors d’une expédition vers une montagne perdue au fin fond de la jungle amazonienne, Jean-Marc Boivin se distingue par… ses face-à-face victorieux avec les crocodiles du quartier, armé d’un simple arc. Celui qui se présente comme « l’abominable homme des glaces » sera aussi précurseur dans la visite des moulins glaciaires, ces trous creusés par l’eau qui s’enfoncent dans les profondeurs des glaciers. Avec le spécialiste de l’exploration souterraine Janot Lamberton, il atteint au Groënland la cote de moins cinq cents mètres. Les noms qu’ils donnent aux passages qu’ils franchissent, au fur et à mesure qu’ils s’enfoncent dans les entrailles du glacier, en disent long sur l’ambiance des lieux : la roulette russe, les pianos qui dansent, la course des rats. Il réussira la gageure de descendre des Drus à skis, montagne rocheuse s’il en est, sur laquelle l’oeil normal peine à voir la moindre parcelle de neige. Son chef-d’oeuvre sera de sauter du sommet de l’Everest en parapente. Un exploit qui n’a jamais été réédité. On l’aura compris, Jean-Marc Boivin est joueur.
Et quand Patrick Berhault le contacte pour relever le défi Fou-Drus, il est enthousiaste. Aussitôt, il étudie le problème delta. Car l’idée, c’est de relier les deux montagnes par un vol en « bi » avec un deltaplane.

Hans et Ghünter regardent les dernières étoiles s’éteindre. La nuit n’a pas été trop fraîche et ils ont plutôt bien dormi. Ils sont dans la dernière partie de la paroi sud du Fou, au seul emplacement de bivouac possible de toute la face. Une longue journée de bataille leur a permis d’atteindre ce nid d’aigle juste avant la tombée de la nuit. Ce sont deux très bons grimpeurs, surtout Hans, mais ils perdent un temps considérable dans les manoeuvres de hissage de leur sac qui ne cesse de se coincer. Ils ont remarqué que d’autres grimpeurs sont venus prendre place au pied de la muraille. Des Français, dont les cris d’horreur leur sont parvenus jusqu’aux oreilles, au moment où le soleil disparaissait. Ghünter avait tout de suite compris ce qui motivait ces hurlements et n’avait pu s’empêcher de rire. Ce matin-là, alors qu’il franchissait le toit en « sept », une violente douleur lui avait secoué les tripes : il avait eu à peine le temps de baisser culotte, suspendu à un piton : une gerbe sombre, source d’un profond soulagement, avait alors douché la première longueur, pour finir sa course en crépissant la plate-forme d’attaque de la paroi… Après toute une journée au bon soleil d’août, dans ce four encaissé, l’odeur devait être épouvantable ! Les Français avaient dû aller bivouaquer ailleurs.
Régulièrement, du haut de leur perchoir, Hans et Ghünter jettent un coup d’oeil vers le bas. Ils ont vu des frontales s’agiter sous le surplomb en « sept » alors qu’il faisait encore nuit. Maintenant, avec les premières lueurs de l’aube, ils distinguent deux petits points, qui grossissent, grossissent… Bientôt, ils remarquent que les deux grimpeurs n’ont pas de sac, et qu’ils franchissent tous les passages en libre, se contentant sans état d’âme du matériel en place. À peine si celui qui grimpe en tête et qui semble propulsé par un turbo, a rajouté quelques coinceurs dans la fameuse diagonale.
À huit heures du matin, pantois, Hans et Ghünter voient débouler à leur bivouac deux gaillards rigolards, qui gambadent dans cet univers d’une implacable verticalité avec une légèreté désopilante. Les deux Allemands n’ont pas fini leur tasse de thé, que les deux bolides sont déjà au-dessus d’eux. Un instant, Ghünter redoute un bombardement vengeur… mais non, les deux Français sont fair-play et n’ont pas de problèmes intestinaux.
Cinq heures quarante après leur départ, Patrick Berhault et Jean-Marc Boivin atteignent le sommet de l’Aiguille du Fou.

La cordée qui s’extirpe du couloir Spencer savoure les premiers rayons du soleil. Ce corridor qui débouche au sommet de l’aiguille de Blaitière n’est pas très long mais extrêmement raide. Le fait qu’il domine un énorme sérac, haut de plus de cent mètres, rend son ascension encore plus inquiétante. L’impression de remonter un toboggan avec un terrible tremplin en point d’orgue. Du haut de la pente, la vue plonge sur Chamonix, deux mille cinq cents mètres plus bas. Les deux alpinistes sont soulagés à l’idée qu’ils pourront bientôt poser les pieds sur du terrain horizontal. Un grand cri déchire l’atmosphère. Les malheureux se recroquevillent sur eux-mêmes. À coup sûr, une cordée vient de dévisser au-dessus d’eux. Une ombre passe. Le grimpeur de tête lève les yeux prudemment. Il voit se découper dans l’azur une grande voile triangulaire sous laquelle s’agitent deux énergumènes apparemment très joyeux. Ils glissent dans l’air frais, à vive allure, et disparaissent bientôt derrière les Grands Charmoz. Après une cavalcade sur les arêtes qui séparent l’Aiguille du Fou —trop exiguë pour un décollage — de l’Aiguille de Blaitière, les baladins de l’Alpe ont retrouvé leur aile delta, installée la veille. « À l’emplacement du montage, raconte Jean-Marc Boivin, le vent vient de travers, je décide alors de partir du sommet du couloir Spencer. Tant bien que mal, nous déplaçons ce monstrueux papillon de vingt mètres, pour nous apercevoir que le couloir est légèrement concave : les deux bouts de l’aile touchent le rocher. Le moindre frottement au départ risquerait de déséquilibrer l’appareil, et alors… fini le programme de la journée !
« Nouvelle hésitation : nous redescendons d’une dizaine de mètres, en assurant l’aile de peur qu’elle ne nous échappe, jusqu’à une barre rocheuse très raide coiffée d’un gros bloc de un mètre sur un mètre cinquante. Évidemment, c’est un très gros rocher si on le prend sur la tête, mais dessus, à deux, avec une aile de dix mètres d’envergure sur le dos, c’est petit, petit… Il faut cependant arrêter nos tribulations qui nous ont déjà fait perdre deux heures. Patrick me rejoint, calme et détendu. J’accroche les harnais. « C’est bon ? » « OK ». Je pousse un grand cri afin de me détendre… »
Pour Eveline et Jean, la journée a plutôt bien commencé. Après un bivouac agréable sur la moraine des Drus, ils ont réussi à attaquer le socle de la Directe Américaine dans le peloton de tête. La météo est bonne pour plusieurs jours et nombreuses sont les cordées à s’être orientées vers la fameuse voie. Tandis que Jean empoigne la première fissure, où dégouline un peu d’eau, une bruyante cordée d’Espagnols fait le pied de grue derrière eux. Deux cordées les précèdent et semblent avancer assez vite. Eveline et Jean savent qu’il y a aussi deux, peut-être trois cordées, qui ont pris l’option de bivouaquer au-dessus du socle. Ils espèrent qu’elles se sont déjà mises en action. En deux heures trente, le couple rejoint le sommet du premier bastion. Quelques pierres ont fusé au-dessus de leurs têtes : les locataires de l’étage supérieur sont bien réveillés. C’est Eveline qui mène la cordée dans la traversée qui permet de rejoindre la célèbre « fissure de quarante mètres ». Elle passe un peu trop haut et se fait sérieusement peur. Quand elle arrive au relais, encore tremblante, quatre alpinistes l’attendent. Il y a bouchon. Pendant ce temps, le leader de la cordée espagnole, profitant de l’erreur de la Française, a décidé de doubler. Ainsi lorsque Jean rejoint Eveline, ils se bousculent à six sur une étroite plate-forme. Les manoeuvres de corde s’en ressentent. D’autant que les cordées de tête rencontrent quelques ennuis pour franchir la sévère fissure, passage clé de la voie. À midi et demi, après deux heures d’attente sans bouger, les choses se débloquent un peu. Il ne reste plus qu’un grimpeur à passer et ce sera le tour du couple.
- Tiens, un parapente, dit Jean.

- Un deltaplane, corrige Eveline.
Ils suivent des yeux le bel oiseau qui perd de la hauteur.
- Ils sont deux ! dit Jean, on dirait qu’ils vont atterrir…
Après trois virages en spirale descendante, l’aile delta s’approche du Rognon des Drus, au pied de la face. Effectivement, l’engin se pose en douceur dans la neige.
C’est au tour de Jean. L’inaction l’a ankylosé, il peine dès le début de la fissure. Il faut s’élever en dülfer, une technique qui consiste à tirer des mains sur un bord de la fissure, tout en se repoussant des pieds contre l’autre bord. Méthode efficace mais physiquement très éprouvante. Les pitons sont plutôt rares… Au bout de six, sept mètres, il se suspend au premier qu’il trouve, et se repose. La paroi est à présent entièrement au soleil et a perdu de son austérité. Jean repart ; ses bras sont déjà durs. Il se demande comment il va pouvoir tenir pendant quarante mètres à ce petit jeu. Nouveau piton, nouvel arrêt au stand.

Eveline l’encourage de son mieux. Les Espagnols allument un gros pétard. La dernière cordée de la troupe a choisi d’attendre sur les vires au-dessus du socle. Elle voit soudain apparaître deux grimpeurs en tee-shirt, qui trottinent l’un derrière l’autre. Ils leur passent à côté en les saluant et s’engagent dans la traversée à corde tendue.
- Bonjour ! leur dit Eveline à leur arrivée au relais.

- Bonjour !

- Buenos !
Patrick Berhault regarde son compère, qui mène les opérations pour cette seconde ascension, et lui suggère, qu’en se faisant légers, on pourrait peut-être…
Boivin est parti dans la fissure. Il double Jean en finesse, galope le long de la faille surplombante. Le voici au sommet. Berhault est déjà en action. Les trois autres cordées au-dessus d’eux, des Italiens, des Allemands, des Polonais, sont absorbées de la même manière. À peine si les gens les voient passer. À dix-sept heures trente, ils sont au « bloc coincé », fin de la Directe proprement dite, et entament aussitôt la descente en rappel.
Le soir tombe et le vent aussi. L’aile delta peut enfin décoller. Glissant dans la nuit, elle s’envole au-dessus de la Mer de Glace et s’éloigne vers les lumières de la ville. Ce soir, Berhault et Boivin dormiront dans leur lit. Les Italiens, les Allemands et les Polonais ont réussi à rejoindre le « bloc coincé », et se sont posés à huit dessus. Eveline et Jean ont continué à leur rythme. Ils ont installé leur bivouac sur une petite plate-forme, quelques longueurs au-dessus de la fissure en dülfer. Le réchaud à gaz ronronne entre eux deux. Au menu, boeuf marengo lyophilisé.
Des rires et des éclats de voix remontent le long de la paroi. Grosse ambiance au camp des Espagnols, sur les vires du socle.

Jean est optimiste :

- Demain soir, on est au sommet des Drus !

Quelques pierres roulent du côté des Flammes de Pierre.
Hans et Ghünter ont atteint le sommet du Fou à dix-sept heures : toujours ce maudit sac qui n’arrêtait pas de se coincer. Ce soir, ils bivouaquent au col du Fou. Ils n’ont plus que du thé. C’est peut-être mieux pour les intestins de Ghünter.

D’autres pierres roulent dans la gorge, sous la face sud.



A lire

Berhault, par Michel Bricola avec la collaboration de Dominique Potard
Editions Guérin, collection Texte et Images
Environ 300 pages et 200 photos dont beaucoup, issues des albums privés de la famille Berhault sont inédites.
Parution : mai 2008
55 € en librairie ou par correspondance : 26 rue des Moulins, 74 400 Chamonix / 04 50 53 74 74 / www.editionsguerin.com

JPG - 12.8 ko

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