Comment j’ai gravi le Mont Blanc
Comment j’ai gravi le Mont Blanc
Gravir le Mont Blanc est un rêve qui recrute ses adeptes bien au-delà du cercle fermé des alpinistes. Suffisamment difficile pour être universellement reconnue et suffisamment facile pour rester accessible au plus grand nombre, cette ascension forme l’un des derniers rites initiatiques de notre société moderne. Voici le récit d’un novice parti à l’ascension du Toit de l’Europe et qui nous raconte « son Mont Blanc ».
Textes et photos : Christophe Raylat
Prologue. Pourquoi gravir le Mont Blanc ?
Cette question cruciale se pose essentiellement pour les gens comme moi, non-alpinistes, non-montagnards, mais pourtant titillés depuis l’enfance par l’idée d’aller poser leurs semelles sur ce fameux Toit de l’Europe. Le vrai alpiniste, lui, il ne se pose pas cette question. Il grimpe le Mont Blanc parce que c’est la plus haute montagne des Alpes et qu’il y a de toute part des voies sur lesquelles il peut mesurer sa maîtrise du vertige et son mépris du danger (je ne parlerai pas de son agilité de chamois). Non, la véritable question du « pourquoi » se pose surtout chez le pur novice.
Que va-t-on faire là-haut ? Avant de tenter une réponse il faut souligner un fait essentiel. Le Mont Blanc a le profil idéal pour fasciner les gens comme moi. D’abord il est haut, presque 5000 m, avec son impressionnante calotte de glace. Nous sommes à des altitudes où l’on parle d’acclimatation, de mal aigüe des montagnes, des altitudes où l’on accède avec précaution et où l’on ne s’attarde pas. Il serait 1000 mètres moins haut, son ascension serait trop facilement accessible, il serait 1000 mètres plus haut, les profanes comme moi n’auraient aucune chance de l’atteindre. Et il en va de même pour ses difficultés techniques, suffisamment sélectives pour que l’ascension mérite une attention particulière tout en restant abordable à tout candidat tenant à peu près debout sur ses jambes. Une situation idéale pour que le Mont Blanc constitue un défi sportif qui dépasse de loin le cadre des pratiquants réguliers de la montagne. N’oublions pas non plus son caractère social, non-négligeable. A la machine à café, lorsqu’on vous demande ce que vous avez fait le week-end dernier et que vous répondez « j’ai gravi le Mont Blanc », ça parle à tout le monde, et on ne peut pas nier que le prestige soudainement acquis auprès de sa jeune collègue du marketing laisse totalement indifférent. Gravir le Mont Blanc est une référence universelle, et la performance associée est reconnue de tous comme authentiquement respectable. Tous ces éléments font de cette ascension l’un des rites initiatiques les plus puissants de notre société. Ceci étant dit, chacun puise dans sa culture privée le sens profond d’une telle ascension. Un sens qui se révèle souvent le long de la trace qui serpente jusqu’aux 4810 m fatidiques.
Acte 1. Glaciers, me voilà !
- Le nid d’aigle
Le petit train qui monte à Chamonix depuis Saint Gervais est de loin le meilleur moyen d’accéder au pied du Mont Blanc. Il se tortille entre viaducs et forêts sombres laissant apparaître ici ou là un coin de glacier ou une arête effilée. Le nez à la fenêtre, je scrute l’apparition du Géant des lieux. Les nuages se dissipent lentement et la lumière cristalline nettoie les scories d’un train de nuit bondé et surchauffé entre Paris et Saint Gervais. Je débarque à Chamonix pour la première fois, bardé d’images où se télescopent gravures anciennes et boules à neige, sans oublier le célèbre téléphérique rouge de mon enfance. Constat sans appel, la tendance 2010 est plutôt au tourisme russo-chinois et aux boutiques de luxe. Je cherche les montagnards au pied de la célèbre statue de Balmat et Saussure. Et je me surprends, comme certains touristes à regarder le doigt de Balmat. Quand le sage montre le ciel… Le Mont Blanc est encore bien loin.
Acte 2. Je hais les alpinistes !
- Le refuge Vallot
Mais j’aime mon guide. Il s’appelle Benoît Profit, il est grand, costaud, toujours souriant, toujours attentionné, il me parle de lenteur, d’introspection dans la marche, il est aussi sophrologue, bref le gars qui vous rassure totalement, avec lui on irait au bout du monde. Les alpinistes c’est autre chose, ces types se complaisent à afficher une totale désinvolture là où vous sentez votre dernière heure arriver. Ainsi sur les échelles qui descendent vers la Mer de Glace (et dont la hauteur dépasse allègrement les trente mètres), mon cerveau m’envoie soudain des « warning » désespérés. En rouge clignote le mot « vertige, vertige, vertige… ». Un peu comme un marin découvrant avec horreur qu’il souffre du mal de mer le jour où il s’embarque pour une transatlantique, j’ai la tête qui tourne et les mains étrangement moites au sommet de mon échelle débonnaire. C’est à cet instant que surgit au pas de course une équipe d’alpinistes en parure complète. Magnifiques. Matériel dernier cri, visages puissamment burinés, corps sculptés par les ascensions extrêmes. Je crois capter un regard condescendant alors que Benoît m’encorde. Il y en a même un qui esquisse un sourire. Je l’étranglerais bien de mes mains, alors qu’il file à toute allure sur les échelles semblant plonger directement au cœur du glacier.
Acte 3. Les pas légers sur la glace
- L’Arête des Bosses
Au troisième jour du périple, nous quittons le refuge Albert 1er pour traverser le glacier du Tour et gravir une sorte de Mont Blanc miniature, Tête Blanche, à 3500 m (à peu près). Nous avons mis les crampons et nous marchons à une bonne vingtaine de mètres les uns des autres. L’aube dessine de délicates nuances de mauves autour des crevasses que nous contournons. Ambiance extraordinaire. Prendre conscience du caractère profondément insoupçonnable de la mise en œuvre d’un rêve. Lorsqu’on se dit « je vais gravir le Mont Blanc » on se doute bien qu’entre le moment où l’on descendra du train et celui où l’on se dressera (peut-être) au sommet, il se passera pas mal d’évènements impromptus. Pour ma part, j’imaginais surtout de la souffrance physique, des tempêtes, des avalanches le tout mâtiné d’héroïsme épique, mais rien ne laissait présager cette poésie de formes et de lumières, cette déambulation sur un glacier bienveillant. Pentes douces, nous marchons lentement sans nous soucier des cordées d’alpinistes (grrrr) qui nous dépassent. Le bruit mat de nos crampons rythme la marche, petite musique des pas légers sur la neige durcit par le gel. Qui aurait pu croire qu’il fût aussi facile d’entrer dans le mystérieux territoire de l’altitude. Au moment où le soleil nous rejoint, je me dis que forcément au Mont Blanc ce sera une autre paire de manche.
Acte 4. La trouille au ventre
- Montée au Goûter
Les couvertures sont rêches et épaisses, chargées des insomnies anxieuses de mes prédécesseurs. Un peu glauque le refuge du Goûter. Nous sommes entassés dans un dortoir sans fenêtre, la chaleur est suffocante, ça ronfle, ça gémit, ça renifle, ça tousse, si bien que je me demande s’il y a une personne qui dort dans tout le refuge. Égrainer les heures qu’il reste avant le réveil prévu à 2h. Plutôt que de compter les moutons (méthode dont l’efficacité n’a pas été prouvée scientifiquement à 4000 m d’altitude), je rejoue la journée écoulée. Le départ en téléphérique des Houches, puis le train du Mont-Blanc qui nous laisse au nid d’Aigle. L’excitation est à son comble alors que nous faisons nos premiers pas vers l’objectif tant attendu, un peu comme des Marines du D.Day sur la plage d’Omaha Beach. À la fois excités et la trouille au ventre. Heureusement Benoît calme le jeu en imposant un rythme d’escargot indolent à notre petite caravane. Si bien que l’arrivée au refuge de Tête Rousse nous surprend presque au terme d’une montée sans effort apparent. Nous sommes à plus de 3000 m, le refuge tout neuf est accueillant, la face nord de Bionnassay qui nous domine a un petit air d’Himalaya. Mais la suite du parcours me glace le sang. Une paroi de roc et de neige qui semble d’ici presque verticale. Je scrute le versant pour tenter d’en deviner le cheminement. Benoit a dû lire un soupçon d’angoisse dans mon regard car il pose une main rassurante sur mon épaule en me disant « ne t’inquiète pas ça monte tout seul, le vrai problème c’est le grand couloir que l’on traverse en bas de la pente, il peut y avoir des chutes de pierres, il faudra passer rapidement et bien suivre mes consignes ». L’image de rochers gros comme des voitures dévalant la pente dans notre direction me traverse l’esprit.
Quelques heures plus tard, le fameux couloir se révèlera pas si terrible que ça. Nous sommes début juillet et il reste encore pas mal de neige, j’emboîte le pas de Benoît pour traverser au pas de course la vingtaine de mètres exposée. Regard vers le haut, rien ne bouge, ouf ! Ensuite nous montons sur une sorte d’éperon où il faut de temps en temps poser les mains pour progresser. Un câble protège le passage le plus raid. Curieusement mon vertige initial ne s’exprime pas vraiment sur ce terrain.
Acte 5. Des lucioles sur la taupinière
- Descente du Dôme du Goûter
2h du matin. Cette fois c’est l’heure. Alea jacta est comme disait l’autre, va falloir serrer les dents.
Dans la salle à manger du refuge, la lumière blafarde des ampoules 12V souligne parfaitement l’ambiance festive qui règne au petit-déjeuner. Aussi difficile de parler que d’avaler les biscottes trempées dans un café tiède. Puis tout s’accélère, « faut y aller » me dit Benoît. Sortir du refuge, un vent glacial cingle la nuit et me cueille sur le perron. Des dizaines de loupiotes m’aveuglent lorsqu’elles croisent mon regard. Mettre ses crampons tant bien que mal, les doigts engourdis, le dos raide, les neurones semblent être restés sous la couette, je n’arrive pas à assembler deux pensées cohérentes. Benoît m’encorde, et nous partons aussitôt. Après cette sortie de refuge violente dans une ambiance hostile, tout se calme soudain. Des dizaines de cordées se suivent à quelques mètres sur une trace large et peu pentue. Les rafales de vent glacial me font frissonner. Je ne m’attendais pas à une ambiance aussi austère. Lorsqu’on évoque l’ascension du Mont Blanc, le moment du départ au coeur de la nuit est rarement souligné. Ce fut pourtant un temps fort de mon expérience. J’ai ressenti violemment l’immersion dans un univers inconnu et hostile. Les minutes, les heures s’égrainent dans un ballet de lampes frontales pareil à des petits paquets de vers luisants rampant sur les flancs d’une taupinière. Rythme lent et régulier, pas vraiment de souffrance, mais toujours ce vent et ce froid. Chacun s’emmitoufle à l’intérieur de ses pensées, aucun autre bruit que les crampons sur la neige dure. Heures d’introspection suspendues, loin au-dessus des Hommes.
Au Dôme du Goûter, les premières lueurs de l’aube nous atteignent. Je commence à dessiner les reliefs dans la traversée vers le refuge Vallot. L’aiguille du Midi est maintenant un petit sommet que nous dominons largement. Le froid s’intensifie, « c’est normal, me dit Benoît, le moment le plus froid de la nuit est juste avant le lever du soleil, nous allons nous arrêter quelques instants à Vallot pour boire du thé chaud et rajouter une couche de vêtements ». L’entrée dans cet abri d’altitude évoque la cour des miracles. Certains contiennent mal leur nausée, d’autres grelottent ou demandent qui a de l’aspirine, certains semblent avoir dormi là… « On ne s’attarde pas me dit fermement mon guide, c’est un coup à pas pouvoir repartir... » Après quelques gorgées de thé, j’enfile ma doudoune sans manche sous ma veste et nous ressortons illico. Ces quelques minutes ont suffi à faire venir le jour, nous rangeons les lampes et reprenons la trace qui monte raide vers l’arête des Bosses.
Acte 6. Mon piolet, mon ami…
Je me demande bien ce que Benoît a mis dans son thé. La grande forme est au rendez-vous sur cette pente soutenue et gelée par endroits. Je me surprends même à fredonner quelques airs victorieux alors qu’un soleil divin apparaît soudain derrière le mont Maudit. Des rafales me bousculent à l’entrée de l’arête. La trace est étroite, les pentes fuyantes sur le coté me rappellent au danger. Trêve d’euphorie, le sommet est encore loin, surtout que la finesse de l’arête me surprend. Benoît se tourne vers moi, « tu te concentres bien sur tes pas, écarte les crampons pour ne pas trébucher », la corde est tendue à bloc et je ne vaux guère mieux. Soudain une rafale me bouscule, je m’accroupis et dans un réflexe insoupçonné je plante la pique de mon piolet et m’accroche à elle en attendant que le vent se calme. « Bien joué », la voix de mon guide se perd dans la tempête. Un instant, l’idée de fuir me traverse l’esprit. Fuir, par où ? Mais déjà nous repartons et traversons les précipices inquiétants du versant ouest, heureusement que la trace est excellente, qui a dit que l’ascension du Mont Blanc était un truc débonnaire accessible à n’importe qui ? Un alpiniste, sûrement.
Acte 7. Sommet !
- Arrivée au sommet
Après un court passage versant ouest l’arête s’affine encore un peu et la trace se divise en deux étages, un pour les pieds, un pour planter le piolet. Un nuage lenticulaire s’est formé sur le sommet et nous ne voyons pas à plus de dix mètres devant nous. Je ne calcule plus rien, je suis mon guide sans me poser de question, le souffle court, et un léger mal de tête lancinant qui descend parfois dans l’estomac. L’altitude commence à se faire sentir. Et presque par surprise, l’arête s’élargit, le sommet est là, plat, accueillant, habité de gens qui se prennent en photo et se congratulent généreusement. Benoît se tourne vers moi et m’attrape à bras le corps pour me féliciter « bravo, tu es super bien monté, chapeau ! », moi je souris bêtement, un peu incrédule. On y est vraiment ? Soulagement que la montée soit terminée, puis une vague d’émotion étrange m’envahit, je regarde en silence le panorama époustouflant et tente de mémoriser le moindre détail de cet instant unique. Autour de moi, certains ont sorti les thermos et fêtent le sommet à grand renfort de thé brûlant, d’autres sont au téléphone et appellent leurs proches pour les réveiller en jouant à « devine d’où je t’appelle… », d’autres sont assis dans la neige comme hypnotisés par le paysage infini. Nous sommes à 4810 m au sommet du Mont Blanc. Sommet facile, que peuvent gravir de simples amateurs. Sommet aux frontières de l’inaccessible pour les novices de mon espèce et qui en devient un authentique lieu d’exploit et de dépassement. Ici les alpinistes s’ennuient, mais les médiocres vivent l’extase du rêve accompli.
Epilogue
De retour au refuge du Goûter, quelque chose d’imperceptible a changé dans mon regard. Accoudé à la barrière dominant le vide de la face du Goûter, je m’apprête à descendre le versant vertigineux avec une sûreté de moi qui confine à l’insouciance. Tout à l’heure, j’ai presque eu un pincement au coeur en repassant la barre des 4000 m, quitter cet environnement glaciaire, ces corniches géantes, ces sommets meringués comme une tarte au citron, il faudra revenir, bientôt. Accoudé à ma barrière je regarde une cordée sortir de la face rocheuse, le guide tire derrière lui des clients titubants et livides. L’un d’eux croise mon regard. Je lui dis bonjour en souriant mais lui conserve son expression inquiète et épuisée. Alors que nous nous lançons avec aisance dans la descente du Goûter, je me demande soudain si cet inconnu ne m’a pas pris pour un alpiniste. Oui, c’est certain, le Mont Blanc, ça vous change un homme.
Pratique : Avec qui gravir le Mont Blanc
- L’agence Stages Expéditions, basée à Chamonix, est spécialisée dans les stages de 5 à 10 jours pour se préparer et gravir le Mont Blanc. Stage 6 jours « destination Mont Blanc » à partir de 1125 €, stages 5 jours « Objectif Mont Blanc » à partir de 995 €, tout compris.
Contact : www.stagexpe.com, tel. 04 50 55 94 26.
- La compagnie des guides de Saint Gervais et celle de Chamonix proposent des ascensions en 2 ou trois jours.
Compagnie des guides de Saint Gervais : www.guides-mont-blanc.com, 04 50 47 76 55.
Compagnie des guides de Chamonix : www.chamonix-guides.com, tel. 04 50 53 00 88.
- L’agence Allibert propose une grande traversée du Mont Blanc, par l’aiguille de Bionnassay et les Trois Monts. Un itinéraire de grande envergure réservé aux alpinistes expérimentés. A partir de 1395 €. Contact : www.allibert-trekking.com, tel.0 825 090 190
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